Less Weeds - Established No Mow Grass is so thick weed seeds can't reach the ground to germinate. Weed control is usually only done the first year and then only periodically. So you don't need costly and environmentally harsh chemicals.

Less Watering - Established No Mow lawn is dense enough to shade its self and hold in moisture longer. Most homeowners experience watering needs of 75% less than other high maintenance grasses. So you won't have high water bills from your lawn!

Less Mowing - Most people will only mow "public" areas and leave the back & side yards un-mowed. Since No Mow Grass only grows 1" - 6" high it may not need a trim in the front either. To have a manicured look - only mow No Mow Grass once a month or less - but not during the summer heat. So you won't be spending hours every week maintaining your lawn!

Less fertilizing - We do not recommend chemicals on your No Mow Grass lawn. You only need to "top dress" your lawn every few years with a good compost or peat moss. So you won't be spending time and money on fertilizing!

Click for Page Link:

Spring Clean Up	Fall Clean Up	Fertilizing	Pet Problems	Mowing
Watering	Thatch	Insects	Traffic	Green Time

Our Philosophy: We do not recommend adding any chemicals to your No Mow Grass lawn. Chemicals kill the micro-organisms that in turn No Mow Grass.  Healthy lawn organisms = healthy No Mow Grass which will resist disease, insects and traffic. Use chemicals to feed your grass and you must continue using chemicals to feed your grass (even though chemicals give you "instant gratification"). Using all natural compost & peat moss is not the "quick fix" so be patient and feed your soil and you will find your lawn is healthier and more resilient (and safer for you, your pets and children).
Never use products not meant for bent grasses. Read all labels on products before buying.

Spring Clean Up

Cleaning up old leaves and debris will go a long way in ensuring a healthy lawn. Spring clean up includes raking and general cleaning lawn areas. Mowing in the Spring is optional but recommended for "show-case" lawn areas like entrance areas.

Spring is the time to add a layer of peat moss or compost. Do this by spreading a light layer of compost before the first grass sprouts leaves. Rake it in lightly if lumps are present. Do this every 5 - 10 years or when your grass needs a "boost".

 

Back to TOP

Fall Clean Up

Fall is a good time to prepare for next spring by mulch mowing fallen leaves or raking leaves into piles for mulching over flower beds as winter protection.

Back to TOP

 Weeds -When ever planting bare soil - some weeds will come onto exposed soil. You need to do weed control the first year and after that only occationally, since the established lawn is usually very thick. Though our thicker grass reduces the weed seeds from reaching the soil, some rooted weeds will prevail. Buried weed seed can enter a lawn from wind, birds, squirrels, on pets and other means. Weeds like crab grass can grow up through 6' of soil. Weeds can be removed by either spot spraying (using any weed killer or vinegar) or torching the weed when the grass is wet.

Don't let weeds go to seed.

Back to TOP

Fertilizing - Again - feed your soil with micro-organisms or get into the endless cycle of feeding your grass chemicals. Adding a light layer of compost every 3 - 10 years can go a long way in developing a healthy lawn. It is not the quick fix but will improve greatly over time and as your lawn micro-organisms continue their work.

We also have Micro-Clover Available to improve soil and fix nitrogen.

Back to TOP

Pet Problems - For every 50 pounds of pet, you need 1,000 + sq feet of space. If that space is not available, then they need to be taken to local pet running areas daily. Your lawn will benefit from mulch mowing when you mow and it feeds the lawn by having the micro-organisms to break down pet pooh but proper lawn poo pickup maintenance is still needed.

Back to TOP

Mowing - We recommend a spring mowing to reduce your grass's tendency to go to seed. Some people mow monthly, others only mow once in the spring, once early summer and once in the fall.This does not produce a manicured lawn look. . . it has more of a short meadow appearance. If you want a manicured look, then mow monthly - but not during the hot dry season. Stop mowing when temperatures are over 80 degrees.

Always mulch mow when you do mow - you are feeding back to your soil. Always set your mower to "low mowing in spring" and "HIGH" from June 1st and on.

Since all NoMowGrasses are spreading grasses, there is occasional edging of lawn areas. This can be done by just mowing the edges of the lawn or using an edger (a weed-wacker on it's side).

Back to TOP

Watering- If you must water then water lightly at dawn. Watering lightly three times a week in dessert areas is more beneficial than watering heavily daily since it forces the root system to go deeper. All our grass has a thick root systems which helps to hold moisture in longer so it can go several weeks without any water. Should browning occur, the grass will return when it receives enough moisture.

The best water for lawns and gardens is from rain water as city watemay have chemicals that kill lawns or it may have softener salts added. Well watercan shock plants if the ground temperatures are drastically different than the ground temperatures grass or plants are growing in. Rain water is typically air temperature and naturally chemical free.

Grey water is easy to use for lawns but follow these before installing - filter your water before storing it; do not use detergents containing bleach or phosphates; empty the tanks weekly and do not store tanks inside of your living space. Grey water does not have black water material in it from kitchens & toilets. Those are separate systems.

Back to TOP

Thatch- You won't have thatch if you have soil organisms that eat it. If you have a problem with thatch build up - try spraying a mix of 1 cup beer mixed to 10 gallons water on lawn areas. Start doing a yearly routine of adding a layer of compost to your lawn. You eventually have no thatch build up problems.

Back to TOP

Insects- are a natural part of any eco-system but some are more than a annoyance. Here's some handy recipes:

Fleas can be chased out of house, home & lawn using 1/2 cup mouthwash mixed into 2 gallons water.

Other insects - soak 1 cup stinging nettles in 1 gallon water. Drain and mix 1 cup with water in a spray bottle. Spray areas not used by people or pets.

Available online is Diatomaceous Earth for replelling insects (some say it eliminates them). It is a all-natural clay-type product that dries out insect exo-skeletons.

Back to TOP

Traffic - Our grasses can all withstand medium traffic but for heavy traffic areas try placing a few stepping stones around the area to protect the root system.

Back to TOP

Green Time:

All our grasses have northern hardy green time. This means they are slow to brown over winter, (most green up over January thaws) and they green up early in the spring.

Back to TOP

No Mow Grass is Your Best Option for Low Maintenance Lawn Care - click to ORDER YOURS now

PLANT & RELAX - WE'VE GOT YOU COVERED!

Sitemap